Elephants (Dylan)

Today we went to ride elephants.

First, we met up in a shady area and the guy told us about the elephants. He asked us to put on this shirt so you don't get dirty. Next, we went to meet our elephants. We got to feed them and pet them. They even hugged you. I also got a kiss. It feels wet and gooey.

After, we got to brush them with a bunch of leaves. Next, we got to wash them with water. They were wet for a little but they dry pretty quick. Then it was time to ride them. My elephant's name was Pytasco. Some people had to ride with one of the staff because they were too young. I didn't. We got on our elephant. When we went down the hill we had to lean back. When we went up we had to lean forward. It took us a while and then we had to cross the road.

I was first to go, but before I did my elephant saw a truck and started running the other way. Finally it stopped. It was scary. I felt like I was going to fall down. When we crossed the road we were pretty much there. It was very cool. We had lunch. It was good. It was set on leaves as a table cloth. Then we got to go in the water with our elephants. We got to sit on them and brush them. Mine stoop up in the water when I was brushing it. At the end, we got to ride the elephants back a little until we got to the road. We had to say bye. It was sad. Then we went back.

The End.

Another 4-Letter Word (Sara)

Like a scene from a horror movie...I'm reading my book at the pool, a shadow suddenly blocks the sun, a drop of water falls on my Kindle, the music from Jaws starts to play in my head, and I hear those 5 dreaded words: "Will you play with me?"

I like to think I'm a fun mom. I dance around when I'm making dinner, I dress up on Halloween, and I take my kids out of school for months to travel to faraway places. So the other day when my kids threw out the unanimous accusation that I don't PLAY with them enough, I was shocked. My first thought was "Are you still talking? I'm trying to read." And then, "Why do you think I had three kids? Go play with each other." But then I noticed the pattern of the lounge chair material permanently imprinted on my leg and gave it some more thought.

The whole point of this trip is for us to experience new things together, to participate in activities that are outside of our comfort zones, and to be present in what we're doing. What am I teaching them if I'm choosing to be present from the sidelines? The memories we're making are just as much about playing in the pool and games of Uno as they are about visiting temples and Buddhas. I want them to be people who DO things, not just observe and take pictures of things, and I want to be one of those people too.

So for the last 2 days, I've said YES to everything. I said YES when Dylan wanted to play hide-and-seek in the pool (think about that for a minute - it's a rectangle), I said YES to going on waterslides over and over at Splash Jungle, I said YES to countless games of Uno and Tenzi. I said YES to  Fusball, and even taught Tyler how to play Blackjack (#lifeskills). I won't pretend I loved every second of it. Most of these things are meant to be enjoyed by kids and I'm not one of them. My game-playing wheelhouse typically involves red Solo cups. But the big picture looks a lot more colorful because I got out there and played my ass off.

I can't promise I'll keep up this pace, and I hope I won't have to once there are other kids around, but I will make an effort to play more. I'll try to say YES more than I say NO. I'll get my hair wet when I'm swimming. I'll order play-doh pizza at the pretend restaurant. I'll act interested and nod my head when Tyler shows me his Minecraft world. But I will NOT get on anything that spins around. That's where I draw the line.

A Loveletter to Krabi (Sara)

Dear Krabi,
It wasn't any one thing about you that stole our hearts, but more the collection of sites, sounds and circumstance that etched a deep impression on us. We were all our best selves there, appreciating different things in the same moments, weaving a fabric of memories that we will hold close. The landscape was like nothing we've ever seen - the breathtaking rock outcroppings dotting the horizon and the color of the water intensely blue or green or crystal clear, depending where you looked. We even loved your weird amusement park and our playful nightly dinner guests. We'll be back one day.

We dig you, Krabi.
Love,
The Derens

Where we stayed:
Banburi Villa - I found it on VRBO, and agonized over this choice for many hours. I wanted to have a non-hotel experience, but I couldn't tell how far it was from the town and beaches, if the pictures were really as good as they looked, and if the house even existed at all after reading about travelers being scammed by fake listings. Fortunately, it all worked out just fine.

The villa (or "house" as we call it in America) was perfectly imperfect. It looked just like the pictures, but a little more worn. The carved teak details gave it character, along with small gaps in the window frames that let in slivers of sunlight and humidity. The washing machine's hose had to be aimed out the back door when in use to let the water out. The pillows were rock hard and the air conditioning was maybe 75% effective.

Each night we would sit on the back deck and watch lizards dart around the walls as we ate dinner. The kids from next door would come over to play in the pool or share video game strategies. Roosters could be heard in the next yard while the kids played. Our hosts, Chris and Bee, shared with us the perfect beaches, showed us the best down-a-dirt-road restaurant, and helped arrange activities and transportation around the area. It felt like Thailand. For each of the minor discomforts, there were way more sensory impressions that will stay with us longer than any hotel or resort would have.

Where we ate
On the first day there, I took a trip to the Makro, Thailand's much smaller equivalent of a Costco. A shopping trip that should have taken me 10 minutes took about 40, thanks to the unusual foods and local shopping norms. Fruit and produce were weighed at a counter in the middle of the store, which of course I didn't know. Meat was scooped by hand out of an open refrigerator using a plastic bag. "International" foods, like pasta and tortillas, could be found amongst frozen fish parts and a thousand varieties of rice noodles. I had to watch what others were doing to figure it all out since I couldn't ask anyone. Fortunately, everything was labeled in Thai and English, so I was able to confirm that the round fruit that looked like a pear was, in fact, a pear. It's amazing how disorienting even the most mundane things can be as a foreigner.

With groceries in hand (literally...I found out once I got to the register that they don't provide bags), we had a well-stocked kitchen to get us through a lot of our meals during the week. We'd eat breakfast at home, usually lunch out, and then order takeout from our favorite restaurant, Hello Blue Monkey, for dinner when everyone was too zonked from the day to venture back out.

We ate a lot of mangos. I drank a lot of coconut smoothies. Jon ate cashew chicken for dinner almost every night.

What we did
Our list of activities reads like a pretty typical tourist itinerary. And of course, that's what we were, but there's such a mix of people in Krabi, that it felt more like we were a part of a culture of travelers. On every beach, we'd see scraggly backpackers, loads of full-figured, middle-aged Russians, all wearing very skimpy bathing suits, and plenty of Thai locals playing with their kids.

Here were some of the highlights:

• Island Hopping - We hired a captain and a longtail boat for half a day to visit a couple of the islands off the coast (2000 THB/~63 USD) . The island were lovely, but it was something about the ride and the sand and the sun and the SCENERY (OMG the scenery) that created this perfect blend of happiness. At the last island stop, we got corn on the cob from a little hut and it was the BEST corn on the cob we've ever had. Except it probably wasn't. It was just that kind of day where everything was the best ever. Also, we went snorkeling and that was awesome, too.

• Seventh Heaven - It was like we had a dream about an amusement park and there was a tinny soundtrack of carnival music playing in the background and there were rides and a pool with slides and giant windmills on a hill and NOBODY ELSE WAS THERE. Except it wasn't a dream. I will call it Bizzare-o-Land. The kids rode a small roller-coaster that the attendant actually had to push up parts of the track because it didn't have enough power to make it around. I'm sure it was very safe. Just like the chicken skewer that Jon bought from the concession stand for 10 THB (32 cents).

• Aa Namao Beach Club - This place just had a certain feel to it. There was a gorgeous beach with limestone karts in the background. There were twisty shady trees with hammocks and rope swings. There was a restaurant that served delicious Thai food AND spaghetti bolognese (yay for Max), and there was a separate pavilion for massages (yay for me and Jon). Oh, and there were a bunch of stray dogs that only attempted to eat Max that one time. Tyler named them all. One was called Smith Sniff. I feel that's important to mention. We really loved this place.

• Railay Beach - If I had an extra few days to spend in this area, it would have been at Railay Beach. It's right next to the slightly seedy section of beach, Ao Nang, but you can only access it by boat because of the steep cliffs that separate the two areas. Once you water-taxi over there, you feel like you're in a different world. There are quaint little alley ways from one beach to another, more beautiful views, and a general sense of seclusion even though there are plenty of people and hotels around. We rented kayaks to explore the area and found our way through a couple of caves. At any point, we could hop out of the kayaks and snorkel. We drank some more fruit smoothies (50 THB/1.60 USD) and ate Roti (Thai pancakes). So good, all around.

Overall Impressions

Maybe it was because it was our first time feeling like we were settling in to this journey. Maybe it was the scenery or the mangos or the rooster or the fish that swarmed us when we swam and made us shriek into our snorkel tubes, or maybe it was all of the things together. It was blissful but not polished. It was relaxed but not indulgent. It was just right in so many ways.

Adventures in Krabi (Tyler)

I got to play with kids named Niyo and Marco. They live in Krabi, Thailand. Their dad owns the house that we stayed in. Niyo is 9 years old and Marco is 6 years old. We got to play in the pool and play video games like Stickman wars:legends and other games as well. We had lots of fun. But we mostly played in the pool.

I saw a lot of dogs and cats. It was cool and also I saw a money jump off a roof and go on a tree. Then I saw another monkey that was walking on the beach. It walked like a dog would.

We got to go on a horse and go along the beach. The horse went fast. The horse was moving so much that it was shaking my body. But then when I was on it for a while l got used to the shaking and it wasn't that bad. 

After that we ate on the beach and I got to play with the dogs after I ate the food. I got two drinks because the food came with a drink and I ordered a drink as well, and I got a nice bowl of Spaghetti. Also i got to go on a Tuk Tuk and a Tuk Tuk van. 

$1=30 B. B=thai money witch is called bot. I get 300 B every week to buy souvenirs and I have 600 B right now on Feb 11. That means that on Feb 17 I will get another 300 B.

To be continued...

The DL on Bangkok (Sara)

We're nearly two weeks in, and the days are really starting to fly by. Before it all flies right out of my head, here's the download on where we started: Bangkok.

The city is huge and so very crowded. There are 10 million people living in Bangkok and it seems that each one of them is driving somewhere every minute of every day. The air quality was so bad while we were there that they closed the schools. It felt like you were chewing dust when you walked outside. Despite this mild health hazard, we had a truly fantastic 5 days there.

Bangkok is a mix of so many things that it was like an instant cultural infusion. The sites, sounds, and smells let us know we were not in Kansas anymore, Toto. We typically did one excursion a day to give ourselves time to adjust to the time difference and set a slow and steady pace for the long stretch of activities ahead. We saw just enough and took a pass on the "shoulds" in the guide books, opting instead for the "what looks good" and "how much time do we have before our kids need to eat again". Afternoon pool time was a daily reward for surviving the brutal heat of the day.

Where we stayed: Maitria Hotel - totally fine. Not fancy but clean and comfortable. We had a 2 bedroom suite (because regular hotel rooms don't typically accommodate 5 people), there was a rooftop pool, and American-style breakfast was served downstairs each morning.

What we did:

1. Imaginia Playland: The perfect kid-friendly place to start our trip. It was a well-developed indoor playground of 21st century skills disguised as fun activities. It was delightful and also really close to our hotel, which made everyone happy. It was also inside one of the many, many malls in Bangkok, which appealed to my Jersey roots.
   
2. The Markets - We hit the railway market and the floating market with a guide. Having the private guide was necessary, as it was over an hour away and she explained some of the foods and had us try things we wouldn't have known about (like these flower-shaped sesame funnel cakes that I don't know the name of). It was a little disappointing that we didn't see the train come through the railway market. The whole draw there is that the market vendors all scoop up their stuff from the tracks and pull in their canopies to let the train pass. It only comes 4 times a day though, and our timing didn't line up. The floating market was also a hair less interesting than expected, BUT the totally unexpected and random zoo in the parking lot outside the market was a big hit. I stuffed down the animal cruelty voices in my head long enough to feed those sad camels and sheep some scallions and then got the heck out of there.
   
   
   
   
3. The Snake Farm - This will be the thing we all remember. PSA: Snakes can't really hear or see, but they can sense movement through vibrations. If you encounter a snake, stand still or back slowly away. If I can save just one person's life through this blog post, I'll know it's all been worth it.
   
4. The Massages:  $8 for a 60 minute foot rub. OMG. Thai massage spots are as common as nail salons in NYC. And before my naughty friends start formulating comments in their heads (you know who you are), these places were NOT offering any off-menu services. Believe me. I asked. (I'm kidding. I didn't.)

Where we ate: 

We pretty much worked off of this blog post (thanks, Karps) and a Thai Street Food book (thanks, Matt Haynes) and I am happy to report that NOBODY has gotten sick yet! (Just like if you pack an umbrella, it won't rain...if you pack a suitcase full of Immodium, your tummy will be A-OK)

A few favs:

1. Rot dee set
2. 392/20 Sukhumvit Rd (this is the address, not the name. I'm pretty sure there was no English language name on it. It's a tiny hole in the wall in an alley serving noodle soups for a dollar that were SO good.
3. Indulge - I wanted to hate this place because it looked more like NYC than Thailand, but the food was delish and the cocktails were made with fresh fruit purees. It was also the first cocktail I had in Thailand AND we were out without the kids AND we had just had that 60 minute foot massage beforehand, so there were just a lot of good impressions going on here.

Overall Impressions:

It's gritty but has so much to see and do. It feels very safe. At one point we passed a bike parking area where not one bike was locked up. They take their Buddhist principles seriously. The food is outrageously good and cheap if you know where to go. Our guide told us that most of the apartments don't have kitchens because everyone eats from the street vendors. The guide was helpful because there were specific things we wanted to do and there were a lot of unknowns, but the train, taxis and tuk tuks are easy enough to navigate if you want to wing it. If I went back, I'd probably stay closer to the river on the other side of town. For us, 5 days was just right, if not one day too long. The beach is definitely more my jam.

Chasing Roosters (Sara)

Our kids are 10, 8, and 6 years old, and I think I can say with some certainty that we have hit that fleeting moment in raising children that is known as “The Sweet Spot”.

Now, don’t get me wrong. They are far from perfect and the non-stop parenting to steer them to safety and decency is exhausting every. single. day. At any given moment, you can hear me barking “keep your hands to yourself”, “stop whining”, “enough with the screens”, or an occasional muttered profanity for good measure. There’s a reason I go to work every day.

And yet here we are in this vortex of togetherness, and I can’t think of a better moment in time to share this adventure with them.

For starters, they’re old enough to carry their own bags. My sherpa duties have been nearly eliminated thanks to their oversized backpacks and desire to keep their electronics close to their bodies at all times. But besides that logistical milestone, there are a few other reasons that this time in their lives and ours is one we’ll probably wish we had back one day.

1. Finding the awesome: When given a choice of standing 4 feet from a deadly snake or visiting a big house where a king used to live, they’ll choose the snake every time. Even riding a train in a new city is cause for excitement. And after we drove 2 hours to visit some traditional thai markets, they spent 20 minutes chasing a rooster around a parking lot. Chasing roosters is the sweet spot. It’s that age where they find joy in the things that we adults stopped noticing a long time ago. Seeing it through their eyes is our sweet spot.
2. They like us. They really like us: Our kids still want to be with us. All the time. They want to sit next to us, sleep in our bed, hold our hands, and visit us in the bathroom. They think we’re cool and smart and they laugh at all our jokes. That kind of validation is exactly why I had kids in the first place, so I am fully embracing this period in time before they call my bluff on made-up explanations and start rolling their eyes at my cheesey humor. For now, the wanting to be with us makes traveling together kind of nice. Nobody has tried to escape yet. 
3. So many questions: They are curious about everything and they’re at an age where they actually ask good questions. Watching them take in new information and put the pieces of their world together gives me hope that they will be interesting people, live productive lives, get jobs, and take care of us when we’re old. Because that’s the other reason we had kids.
4. The unicorn: Every so often, I encounter a scene that I try to freeze in my brain to wash away all of the less-gratifying moments of parenting we encounter on a daily basis. When they were babies, all it took was a smile to counter-balance the exhaustion of a sleepless night. Now, those moments have evolved into something more meaningful and those magical mental snapshots are the fuel for my mama engine. The other day, as we touched down at the airport in Krabi, Max, in all of his going-to-a-house-with-a-pool-excitement, hugged me and said "thank you for bringing us here". Today, I watched all three kids make up games and play together in the pool like the best of friends. These unicorn moments seem to be more frequent here, away from the demands of work and school. Or maybe I'm just paying more attention now. Either way, those moments are the icing on the Sweet Spot cake. 

Islands (Dylan)

Today we went to two islands. The first one was a beach on an island. We swam in the water. Me and Max made sand castles. We had a competition to see whose was better. Mommy was the judge. Nobody won.

My sandcastle

The water was warm. On our way to the next place, we saw some small islands and some big islands. The rocks on the islands looked bumpy. Some of the rocks fell off the islands so it looked like a cave. It was really cool.

Chicken Island

The next place we went to was not an island. We parked in a little area and snorkeled. It was so much fun. We saw so many fish. It was a little scary. The water kept on getting in my mouth. It was salty.

Tyler snorkeling

Then we went to another island. It was really hot. We had chips and corn. It was delicious. The water was aqua - very pretty.

Then we went to Hello Blue Monkey. It was a restaurant. We saw cats and kitties. They were really cute. I got fruit and watermelon juice. It was really good. Then we went back to the house and went in the pool.

This cat's name was Hello

The End.